Your car. Your air.
Your dial.

Your phone's barometer reads the true air pressure at your exact spot — the one input weather apps only guess. That's the app's edge. The BAROMETER panel shows the raw reading and your offset, with CALIBRATE, ZERO, and REFRESH buttons.

One tap on CALIBRATE sets your offset so the barometer agrees with the station's true pressure for your elevation. No barometer in your phone? The app falls back to NWS station pressure or your manual entry automatically.

The station board shows the nearest reporting station (e.g. STATION KMFR), how many minutes ago it reported, and lets you PIN a station to give it first look. A pin with a stale observation is skipped automatically — the app never feeds you stale air. Auto-select otherwise picks the nearest fresh, complete station.

MANUAL AIR lets you type your own trackside temp, dewpoint, and pressure. Manual always wins — your thermometer at the line beats a station miles away.

Pick the car, the track (or none for a private event), the distance 1/81/4, and the round kind TTQE (which auto-labels TT1, Q2, E3…).

Under TIMESLIP, choose the source — Track Dragy GPS box — then fill what you have: Dial ET MPH 60' RT. Add a Lane (L/R) and a Label if you want.

DATA GOOD THRU tells the app how far down track this pass is trustworthy — FULL PASS TO THE 1/8 TO THE 330' TO THE 60' BAD PASS. Killed it at the stripe or hurt parts? Mark where it went bad and the top-end never pollutes your prediction line. No clocks at a no-prep? Log the round with just WIN / LOSS — the air still gets stamped.

The fastest way to load a whole season of history. Tap SCAN SLIP (or share images straight to HPDash Racer) and the app reads the numbers off the picture and pre-fills the form for your review — nothing auto-saves, you eyeball it first. It reads both a printed track timeslip and a Dragy screenshot, and figures out which is which for you.

1. Pick every screenshot at once. Select your whole stack — detail slips and your Dragy history-list screenshots — in one go. The app reads each one right on your phone.
2. It sorts them out. Detail slips become runs; the history list supplies the dates the detail cards leave off; a two-lane track slip lets you pick your lane so the opponent's column never imports.
3. Review the batch, then save. Everything lands in a review sheet — check the numbers, then commit. Backdated runs fetch the real air for that exact moment automatically, up to ~a week back.

Expand FILL IN THE PITS to capture 330' / 660' / 660 MPH / 1000', launch RPM, tire PSI, box delay, throttle-stop timer, and wind (head/tail/cross) plus free-text notes. Optional — the prediction only needs the ET and an air stamp — but it's all there when you want a complete logbook.

The status line reads CONNECTED / SEARCHING / RECONNECTING, with a live MPH, satellite count, and a GPS-readiness word: GPS READY, GPS WEAK, or ACQUIRING. It won't log a phantom run indoors — it waits for a real, stable fix.

SPEED RUNS time whenever you accelerate through a band, from a stop or a roll: 0-60, 0-100, 40-100, 60-130, 100-150 (turn on 0-30 per car for slower cars). Best pull is shown. A completed LAST RUN gives you the splits — 0-60, 60 ft, 330 ft, 1/8 @ trap, 1000 ft, 1/4 @ trap — with a vs predicted delta so you see how close the app was.

Every measured run is saved as a browsable timeslip with a Dragy-style triple chart — SPEED ELEV G-FORCE — plus peak MPH, peak g, and the full splits. The TIMESLIPS list is collapsible with per-kind filters and a best-first toggle so your best 1/8 is always one tap away.

The app auto-flags a run INVALID (and keeps it out of your prediction unless you override) for any of:

Open the timeslip to see the reason and tap MARK VALID / MARK INVALID to override, or USE AUTO to go back.

In GARAGE → your car → DRAGY LOGGING you set, per car: save a distance run to history only if it reaches Any pull / 1/8+ only / 1/4 only, and which speed intervals to measure. That keeps a 9-second car from logging a 0-30 on every pull-away, while a slower car can turn 0-30 on.

Each car shows its type, run count, and current setup. Change the converter, gear, tire, tune, or weight? Tap SETUP CHANGED — the prediction line restarts for that car, because a changed combo is a different car to the math. Old setups live under SETUPS; reactivate one with USE and its runs come back into the line. VALIDATE LINE replays your history walk-forward and tells you how close the prediction has actually been.

Type to search the US strip catalog, or name a custom venue (it takes your current GPS when you're locked, or you can DROP PIN anywhere on Android). Each track remembers its distance, coordinates, and elevation for the best-possible air.

Shows the app version, links to hpdash.com, Privacy, Terms, and the open-source licenses, and — if you're subscribed — a MANAGE SUBSCRIPTION link. Your timeslip images are read on the phone and never leave it; your logbook is yours and exportable any time.

The box sleeps when it sits still — pick it up and give it a shake to wake it, and take it off the charger. Make sure Bluetooth is on and, if prompted, grant the Nearby devices permission. If it still hides, make sure the official Dragy app is fully closed — a connected Dragy stops advertising, so it can't be found while another app is holding it.

The box needs a clear view of the sky — indoors it may connect but never get a real fix. Head outside, give it a minute, and it'll go GPS READY. This is also the app protecting you: it won't log a phantom run without a solid fix.

Not necessarily. The projection blends the NWS hourly forecast with your barometer's recent trend; if the forecast has the air improving, the later number will read better. It's telling you to expect the air to move — write your dial for when you'll actually run.

Either you don't have many runs yet, or tonight's air is outside anything you've logged. The app is being honest that it's guessing. Log more passes across different air (hot days, cold days) and the grade climbs and the ± tightens.